Reacquainting myself with the Pennine Way
My recent little backpacking trip along the Dales Way gave me a taste for more. I might as well get good use out of my new tent! I quickly decided that my next project could be a re-recce of parts of the Pennine Way in preparation for the Winter Spine Challenger North in January 2027, from Hardraw in North Yorkshire to Kirk Yetholm, just over the border in Scotland. I have travelled along this trail twice before: in November 2024 I did a 6 day continuous recce of that section, followed by taking part in the race in January 2025. Unfortunately during the race I developed a back problem and despite my best efforts to continue I retired from the race at the Auchope Rigg hut, aka Hut 2, a mere 7 miles from the finish. Disappointing and frustrating, yet I did not feel I had anything in particular left to prove, so I did not rush to enter for the next year and gave it some time. The pull remains however, and earlier this year I managed to get an entry for 2027. Not an easy feat in itself, these races are very popular and the ‘fastest finger’ entry process is somewhat fraught. As it has been a while now since I was last on the Pennine Way I felt some reacquainting would probably not go amiss.
I should definitely revisit Cross Fell before the race, but the Dufton area and campsite would be getting very busy during my proposed dates due to the annual Appleby horse fair, so I decided to start further north and cover the final section first. Looking at transport logistics as well as distance to cover I decided to start on Hadrian’s Wall near Twice Brewed, and hike to the finish at Kirk Yetholm, a distance of just less than 100km (it came to almost 59 miles in the end), over two days at most. My most favourite part of the Pennine Way.
I found a nice looking campsite Winshields Campsite near Haltwhistle, which is on the Newcastle to Carlisle railway line, and just down the road from the Twice Brewed Inn where I had enjoyed a lovely night’s stay during my earlier recce. The campsite, which is virtually on the trail, looked like a perfect place to stay overnight, and would enable me to make an early morning start to my hike the next day. I checked the weather forecast, as who doesn’t like a good weather window! Being retired I have the luxury of generally having the choice of when to go on a hike or run. Only then did I book the campsite and buy my train tickets to Haltwhistle.
I set off on Thursday May 28. Train to Leeds, then a train to Newcastle, another train to Haltwhistle. All was going very well until we came to a sorry standstill somewhere just beyond Hexham. It turned out there was a boulder on the line, we were stationary for about an hour. As I wasn’t in a hurry this was hardly a disaster, and I admired the good cheer of the female conductor who kept going up and down the train keeping us all informed, shutting the windows to allow the AC to be more effective, then returning to open all the windows again as that seemed to be the better option after all. In the end I would get my entire fare back through Delay Repay, though this was only £6.55. The delay made me look more closely at the map and I realised I might as well get off one stop before Haltwhistle, at Bardon Mill, as the campsite was equidistant between the two stations.
There was a 700 ft climb involved in the three mile walk to the campsite, the first two or so were on the road, small roads without traffic but in the full sun, combined with the ascent and carrying my pack it was quite warm work. I was glad that the last bit was through fields where there was a bit of a breeze. I arrived at Winshields around 7pm. A lovely campsite consisting of mowed fields around an old farmhouse, though the current occupants do not farm the land. The owner Malcolm was very welcoming and showed me the facilities: good quality and clean showers and toilets, and a kitchen area with tables and chairs, a kettle and microwave and a fridge with milk. Sheer luxury! No need for my stove here. All this for £12. The site was very quiet with only a few guests when I was there. An easy short walk to the Twice Brewed Inn, though I didn’t avail myself of the opportunity on this occasion. A long hike lay ahead the next day!
I slept fairly well, though the noise of the stiff breeze on the fabric of the tent woke me up a few times. The wind speed was about 18 mph and would stay like this for much of the day, but was due to drop in the evening, and the night was predicted to be very still. No rain at all on the horizon.
My plan was to hike to Byrness in the first instance, 33 miles, and then assess the state of my legs, ensure I could source enough drinking water, as well as recheck the weather forecast. Plan A was to push on through the night over the Cheviots (26 miles) and arrive in Kirk Yetholm on Saturday morning for an easy journey back home, plan B to camp in Byrness and tackle the Cheviots the next day. Plan A had my strong preference, as I was truly yearning for that ultra run experience of going through the night, and this was looking like it could be a very good night indeed! Plan B would be OK too, but more challenging logistically, in relation to bus times in Kirk Yetholm. Catching the last afternoon bus on the Saturday would require a desperately early morning start and would then put time pressure on me all day. And with no bus service on a Sunday I might in fact have to camp two nights in Town Yetholm where there is a campsite, before being able to travel home on the Monday.
Section 1 – Twice Brewed to Bellingham 17 miles
I got up early and had tea and porridge for breakfast in the kitchen area, after which I took the tent down and packed up. I hit the road, or rather the trail, at 06:45. Next stop Bellingham for lunch. It was a beautiful and quiet morning and soon enough I was on Hadrian’s Wall at Steel Rigg enjoying the views. I so love Hadrian’s Wall, I know it can be a bit ‘marmite’ amongst Spine runners, but for me it is a total highlight on the Pennine Way. I love the grassy trails, the rocky steps up and down, the endless views in all directions, and the historical significance. It does help that the two times I have been here previously I had excellent weather, and today was no different. I relived vivid memories of being here during the Challenger North, witnessing a most stunning sunset followed by an equally amazing moonrise (of a full moon). I was running (well, hiking to be honest) this part of the race with a companion I had met on the trail, Paul, and I have fond recollections of that night, as well as some brilliant photos taken by the Spine photographers.
I walked past the stump of the Sycamore tree, always such an awful sight. Sadly I had never been up here to see the tree before it was so criminally taken down in 2023. But good to see it is continuously sprouting new growth and that the saplings are being gifted and planted.
Soon enough it was time to turn left (north), away from the wall and towards Bellingham, across a mixture of forestry and farm land. It can be very boggy here but for me it was lovely and dry now. I have read plenty of Spine race blogs of people who do not like this section, but I find it quite pleasant. As an aside, in the forested areas you can still see some of the devastation wrought by Storm Arwen in November 2021.
I passed Horneystead Farm, an iconic point on the Spine Race, and on the Pennine Way in general. An honesty snack stop in normal times, during the Spine Races it becomes almost an unofficial checkpoint, where farmer and trail angel Helen takes care of runners with wonderful warmth. Her broth is renowned for reviving flagging athletes. There is a ‘bed’ with an assorted pile of old blankets and plenty of runners have slept there. I am perhaps a bit neurotic on the hygiene side, but it would take an extraordinary level of exhaustion before I could lay myself down there 😊, I think I would always prefer a trail nap on the ground. But never say never! Safety teams are often stationed here, I have been there myself as an SST member in January 2024, on what was surely one of the coldest nights I have ever ‘worked’. It was absolutely baltic. I stopped here briefly too, with Paul, whilst on the Challenger North. But today I pushed on as I had no need of refreshments and Bellingham was only five miles away, not far when the legs are still fresh. I did stop at one of the next houses, at Lowstead, where I had previously seen an old sign, covered in green moss, indicating Pennine Way travellers can use the outside tap. The sign was still there, looking even less readable since I last passed by, but the owner was working in the garden and I asked him, upon which he very kindly took me to the tap. I wasn’t desperately in need of water but thought it would be good to check out the water stops and I also wanted to admire their beautiful garden. Having topped up there followed a stretch on a small road, before I regained the fields on the way to Shitlington Crags. The Ealingham Rigg Relay Station on top of the crags is visible from a long way away. I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I reached this point and the climb up the crags felt like nothing much, in stark contrast to how this all had felt during the race. I had been tired, irritable and my hip flexors were very painful in those final miles to Bellingham. I was sliding all over the place in the mud, which was deeper and sloppier than ever due to the thaw after a big snowfall earlier in that week. Paul and I had joined another three runners and in the last mile or so I let myself fall off the back of this group. I then thought I had reached the Bellingham checkpoint at Brown Rigg but had gone into the Forestry Commission Offices’ driveway rather than the checkpoint just a 100 meters or so further on. I was very disgruntled that the gate was closed and I squeezed myself through a tiny gap wondering what kind of checkpoint would have their gate closed LOL. And why were there no flags up? Sleep deprivation at its finest! No mud here now, the ground was beautifully dry. I passed the checkpoint location, and made my way over the bridge and along the river North Tyne, into the centre of Bellingham and to the Co-op where I bought supplies, both to eat now for lunch and to take with me on the trail. I sat on a bench and enjoyed a pesto pasta salad, and a chocolate mousse for dessert.
Section 2 – Bellingham to Byrness 16 miles
My lunch break over I hiked uphill along the road, there’s a bit of an ascent out of Bellingham. Through Blakelaw Farm and back into the fields. At the next farm, Hareshaw House, I briefly struggled with the nav, another typical FFF (faffing in a farmer’s field) situation, and laughed at myself when I realised where I was and that I had not got it right on the previous two occasions either. I keep my fingers crossed for January 2027 when surely I shall remember where the gate is and should head straight for it! After this followed many miles of moorland, the highlight was meeting another hiker who was coming the other way. He told me he was hiking from John O’Groats to Land’s End and had recently finished the Cape Wrath Trail. A whole different magnitude compared to my mini-adventure! He was the first person I had met on the trail since leaving the campsite in the morning, and he would remain the only one until I reached Kirk Yetholm, apart from seeing people about in Bellingham of course. Really surprising, especially seeing it was half-term.
I passed Padon Hill Monument and finally climbed up steeply to reach the start of the long tracks through Redesdale Forest. These wide forestry tracks, made for the logging lorries, do go on a bit, some people detest that stretch, but I don’t mind it too much. Approaching Byrness I passed the campsite and noted walkers could camp for £10, my fall-back option, but I felt it was highly likely that I would stick to plan A: carrying on. First a rest in the church. I reached St Francis’ a mile or so further on, at 18:30. A very small and lovely church, it is open 24/7 for Pennine Way walkers and there is bottled drinking water available (for a donation). A crucial lifeline as there is no shop in Byrness. My alternatives would have been to ask for water at Forest View B&B or at the campsite. During the Spine races there is also a kettle as well as tea and coffee, which is placed in the church by the Spine volunteers. Many runners sleep here, in between the pews, for a while before heading out for the final section over the Cheviots, so had I on the race. Volunteering on the SST the year before I had been stationed at the church too, sitting in the campervan of one of my SST colleagues.
I had a sit down in one of the pews, ate some food and filled my water bottles. I rechecked the weather forecast and all was still looking good for the night, with the wind set to drop to almost nothing, just how I like it! I was all set to carry on. I messaged a friend back home to update her on my plans, including the route, my estimated time of arrival in Kirk Yetholm and latest time I would be in contact again. As it happens the signal in the Cheviots is generally quite good so I was able to send location updates after passing both of the two mountain refuge huts. I am very self-reliant and enjoy solo adventures. Sometimes part of me does not really want to tell anyone where I am going at all. Being off the radar gives me a feeling of unlimited freedom. But that would be unwise, so I always leave word of my planned route when I am going anywhere where I could possibly come unstuck.
Section 3 – Byrness to Kirk Yetholm 26 miles
At 7pm I left the church and started the steep climb out or Byrness. There must have been a brief shower whilst I was inside the church, as the grass was wet. But there would be no further rain. Once I reached the top of the climb there was a rainbow adding to the wonderful view from Byrness Hill. The going underfoot was good, though the grass was wet the ground was actually bone dry, even the notorious bogs had dried out. Easy hiking along grassy trails or flagstones; whilst the flagstones can become tedious, for me they are always preferable over tussock or bog hopping. The path generally follows the fence that marks the border between England and Scotland, and there are also regular waymarkers so route finding is mostly easy.
The 26 mile crossing over the Cheviots can handily be divided into three sections (ten, nine and seven miles) as there are two mountain refuge huts, the first one at Yearning Saddle just before Lamb Hill, the second one at Auchope Rigg between Auchope Cairn and the Schil. On the Spine races these are called Hut 1 and Hut 2 respectively. During the winter events they are staffed with Spine volunteers: safety team members and medics. With weather conditions on the Cheviots often being severe, and liable to sudden changes, the huts can literally be life savers. On this mild night they were more like an added luxury, and nice points to aim for to break up my journey.
Travelling north I was accompanied by a beautiful orange and gold sunset to my left, and the light took a long time to disappear. I did not have to turn my head torch on until 22:30. Not before I had seen a group of Cheviot wild goats on the horizon silhouetted against the sunset! I have seen Cheviot goats before, from much closer by in fact (and thus smelled them too! They have a pungent odour) but this was quite a special image. They were too far away to make for a good picture with my phone, but you should be able to see that these are definitely goats and not sheep.
I reached Hut 1 at 22:45. I had started to get a little cold so I put another layer on and dug my gloves out of my pack for the next stretch. I had carried a bottle of chocolate milk with me all the way from Bellingham, and as I had my stove with me I decided I might as well warm it up. Love hot chocolate! I was glad my stove came in useful after all, having not needed it at the campsite. I munched some malt loaf and all was well with the world. As I stepped out of the hut it was as if someone had switched on a ceiling light: the almost full moon was high in the sky. The wind had also dropped significantly. There was still the faintest glimmer of light where the sunset had been, which seemed to remain visible until sunrise. What a night! I made my way towards Windy Gyle, for once not very windy at all, about 4 miles from Hut 1. I was ‘followed’ by the moon, at times it was as if there was someone behind me, but every time I looked round it was just the moon keeping me company. Onwards from Windy Gyle, mainly along miles of stone slabs. No worries on this occasion about stepping on a missing slab and going waist-deep into a bog, it was all so dry.
Unsurprisingly many memories of my last night on the Challenger North came flooding back. Then I had been in so much pain since before Byrness that somewhere near the King’s Seat cairn I felt forced to stop and bivvy in the heather to rest my back. Though an unfortunate situation, it was good experience to carry out an emergency bivvy and find out that I was quite comfortable and warm enough with my kit, even on a January night on the Border Ridge. Sadly after a few hours’ rest things did not substantially improve and I had to ask for help. Two SST members kindly came from Hut 2 to help me, mainly by carrying my pack which made an immediate difference, and I was able to walk with them to Hut 2 and eventually down to Mounthooly Hostel in the College Valley.
As I walked the same route now thoughts did raise their head along the line of ‘was it really that bad?’ and ‘did I give up too easily?’ I am pretty sure that yes, it really was that bad, and no, I did not give up too easily, so I did my best to put these ruminations to one side. What I did learn, subsequently to my DNF, was that the pain which at the time had felt unbearable and worrying turned out to be utterly non-serious. Just nerve irritation in one of my glutes. Had I known that perhaps that might have made it easier to grit my teeth for a few more miles? At least if I ever get it again I will know not to worry.
The colours of the sunrise were in the sky by the time I reached the Auchope Cairn just after three am. What a morning! I laughed at myself as I descended very gingerly and was glad none of my fell running friends could see me being so ridiculously slow! People say you become a better descender with practice, but I have never found that to be the case for me. After all that descent there is a climb back up to the Auchope Rigg hut which I reached at 3:30 am. There was a tent pitched just in front of it. How exciting, people! Likely camping there to see the sunrise. I was quite happy to see someone else and was ready to say a cheerful ‘good morning’, but though I could hear two voices in the tent no one got out, which was fine too.
A nice random fact: the fence that runs nearby the hut still marks the border between England and Scotland. This particular spot is unusual in that you can look south from England for several miles into Scotland.
I had a short break in the hut, and ate some more of my malt loaf, after which I brushed my teeth, always the best way to make you feel like a new woman after a long day and night on the trails. I put my head torch away. It felt a bit strange to be back here in the place which had marked my own finish line that day 18 months ago. Hopefully in January I will be whizzing in and out in good health and good spirits on my way to the true finish. Seven miles to go. I climbed up and over the Schil and down the other side, another descent I didn’t make the most agile job of. Finally, at 05:00, I reached the sign pointing the way down to Kirk Yetholm, four and a half miles. Is this the most yearned for sign on the whole of the Pennine Way😊? And a very pleasant four and a half miles they are too, a gradually descending grassy path until you reach the giant Tunnock’s container and the road. One final nasty hill to conquer and suddenly Kirk Yetholm is there. I arrived at 6:25, just under 24 hours after leaving Twice Brewed. And in good time for the first bus out of Kirk Yetholm at 7:13. The little community bus took me to Kelso where I changed onto a regular bus to Berwick-upon-Tweed station. From there it was an easy journey on the West Coast mainline and I was back home 🏡 at lunch time.
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